I suppose reaching the top of Kilimanjaro made the three of us think we can do almost anything together. About a year ago, we started thinking about taking time to do part of the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain.
I knew my two trekking companions from work, but it was our sponsored hike up Mount Kilimanjaro that turned out to be a real bonding experience.
The Camino is one of the best-known pilgrimage routes. It presents a different kind of challenge. Pilgrims have been following these routes since the 9th century as a means of spiritual growth. In more recent times, hundreds of thousands of walkers every year follow any one of the many paths, for as many reasons. Many, despite having no expectations or objectives when they set out, find that being on such a well-trodden path, so full of history, culture and community experience, so congenial to meditation, offers the walker opportunities for self-discovery and resolution.
What do we know of the history of the Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago (or the Way of St James) consists of myriad pilgrim routes leading to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain in the region of Galicia. It is believed that followers of St James, one of Jesus’s apostles, brought his body to be buried there after he was martyred in Jerusalem. Legend has it that a hermit, guided by stars, later discovered it there: therefore, the name ‘compostela’ (from campus stellae) or ‘field of stars’.
By the 10th century, the Way of St James had become a major pilgrimage route. Originally, it followed an early Roman trade route to the Atlantic coast of Galicia, ending at Cape Finisterre, which was considered Spain’s westernmost point. Over time, the emphasis transferred to the great church in the main square of Compostela, some 80 miles inland. Mediaeval pilgrims would often walk for months, even years, before arriving at the church to pay homage to St James.
More than a religious exercise
The Camino soon attracted more than monks and penitents, and more routes were established from all over Europe, creating a natural intermingling of culture, ideas and commerce. Romanesque churches and Gothic bridges sprang up along the way.
Today, the Camino seems to inspire something special – perhaps an opportunity for reflection, openness and communication. Perhaps it’s the magic of sharing a new experience without barriers and with people who have so many different reasons for being there. That is something to look forward to.
The first Cultural Route of the Council of Europe
In 1987, the Camino, which includes a number of routes, in Spain, France, and Portugal, was declared the first Cultural Route of the Council of Europe. Today, it attracts around 300,000 pilgrims each year. The Camino Francés is the most popular, varied, and the longest at 800km. It starts in Pied-de-Port in France, traverses the Pyrenees and crosses northern Spain to reach Santiago de Compostela. This is the route featured in The Way, a film which reflects the experience and spirit of the Camino.
The different routes offer a wide variation in length, terrain and altitude. The choice of route is very personal and often depends on how much time you have, or what you want to see on the way. In order to qualify for a certificate of completion (the compostela), walkers need to cover a minimum of 100km. A document called the credencial is stamped at each stopover town or hostel and serves as proof of accomplishment.
Our route
We have chosen to do the Camino Inglés, a modest journey of about 120km, over 7 days. Also known as the ‘seafaring way’, it was first used by pilgrims from the British Isles and Scandinavia in the 12th century. During the One Hundred Years War, the British sailed to Santiago and returned from Galicia loaded with goods. Ample evidence of pilgrims from this time have been found in excavations in the area of the cathedral.
Our trip begins in Santiago de Compostela where our plane arrives, presenting a curious magic about beginning the journey at the end. This will give us an opportunity to explore the town a bit and build some sense of anticipation about our imminent walk. From this sacred city, we will take a bus north to the port of Ferrol on the Galician coast, the start of our route.
Over the coming week, I will attempt to entertain you with snippets of our progress across landscapes, landmarks and towns, thoughts, discoveries, and conversations that seem to come with walking over distance. I can’t promise to be as nail biting as my colleague who shared her dramatic high-sea adventure on the Hurtigruten last year. True, the weather forecast has warned of rain and storms for the first three days, but hopefully, we will find calm in the storm to share some inspiring stories.
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