In July I found myself having a school summer holiday stretching out before me, no holiday plans and a tight budget. Having previously walked a number of long distance walks, I thought I’d try the Icknield Way which is considered the ‘oldest road in Britain’. My journey crossed delightful countryside including the Chilterns and Breckland and offered superb vistas along the way. I thoroughly recommend it.
The Roman route starts at Ivinghoe Beacon Hill near Pitstone, just outside Dunstable. It stretches for 110 miles eastward to Thetford. At times, I found I needed to use my ‘All Trails’ app. Below is a precis’ed version of my diary over the first 4 days walking. Part 2 covering days 5 to 8 will be published later.
Day 1 Ivinghoe Beacon to Chalk Hill. 10.9 miles. 1387ft elevation gain
For the first day I coerced my husband to walk with me. Despite the weather being sunny and warm, the mostly mud / chalk path often rambles through shady woodland.
The path meanders from the Beacon down grassy slopes. Soon we entered cooling woods, with sight of feeding deer that soon darted deep into the trees. Our legs were then tested with a steep ascent onto farmland. The steps here help, thankfully.
Passing through Dagnall village, you climb through woodland arriving at the back of ZSL Whipsnade Zoo. Don’t miss the Whipsnade Tree Cathedral. Planted in 1930 by Edward Blyth, different trees form the walls of a cathedral. It’s then onward to Dunstable Downs with spectacular views of the starting point and far beyond.
The descent to Dunstable leads through residential areas briefly before returning to a rural track. It’s easy to go wrong as the signage is confusing, just look for a hidden path that runs beside a drive.
The next section is very overgrown. Upon entering a field, keep to the edge, then it’s a steep climb up an embankment to the road, Chalk Hill. Day 1 done!
Day 2 Chalk Hill to Streatley. 11.2 miles. 1610ft elevation gain
First day on my own. Picking up from yesterday, I take a path down another embankment to a little lane with cottages. Then through an industrial area, a new housing development, over the new A5 Dunstable Bypass by way of a bridge and into fields. There is a lot of walking alongside fields, passing Wingfield, until you reach the B5120 just before the pretty village of Toddington, then heading towards Fancott and eventually crossing over the M1. It’s a steep walk up into Upper Sundon. A little further on, there are spectacular views over Harlington, Flitwick, and Ampthill.
Sharpenhoe Clappers is intriguing. It was thought to have been an Iron Age Fort but has since been identified as a medieval rabbit warren. Rabbits are not native to Britain, first brought by the Romans and later re-introduced by the Normans who farmed them in warrens. So the village’s name, Clappers, comes from the medieval French word ‘Clapier’ meaning a rabbit burrow or warren. But I digress, and so from Sharpenhoe Clappers the route takes you to Streatley.
No facilities en-route today. A detour into Toddington or Streatley would be required – so plan ahead.
Day 3 Streatley to Ickleford. 10.3miles. 1174ft elevation gain
Our youth group used to do a ‘Mad March March’ walking this section there and back over night. So I have walked this stretch many times and know the mostly mud track well. Confession, I didn’t walk this section.
The first stretch from Streatley to Pirton is very rural. There’s a big ascent/descent at Telegraph Hill, which is a popular walking area. Then a long descent down to Pirton, a lovely village with a couple of pubs and a tearoom.
Between Pirton and Ickleford it’s rural walking between hedges. But you are rewarded at Ickleford with lovely pubs and a shop.
Day 4 Ickleford to Royston. 17.9miles. 2339ft elevation gain
Ickleford to Letchworth is also rural. Head up the hill to Letchworth and walk past The Wilbury Pub, featured in Simon Pegg’s science fiction comedy film The World’s End. Then all through Letchworth and Baldock it’s residential/footpaths – but there are lots of food and WC options!
The route leaves Baldock and heads to Clothall. Being familiar with Ickleford to Clothall path, I skipped this section which shortened my walk to 10 miles. So, my day started at Clothall on a path through fields. I began so early I clearly disturbed the birds from their morning meeting. Ten separate piles of feathers indicated something had a feast the previous night!
More fields led me to skirt around Wallington, where George Orwell lived between 1936 and 1947. The route of mud track, stony tracks and tarmac takes you through the very lovely Hertfordshire villages of Roe Green, Sandon, Hay Green and Therfield. Descending down through Therfield Heath, via rugby pitches I arrived at Royston which lies on the Greenwich Meridian Line, and has an archaeological site and a plethora of drinking/food options.
This part of the Icknied Way through Bucks, Beds and Herts is a really interesting path. With the summer heat, I was selective of when I walked, checking the forecast to avoid 28 degree plus days. So I didn’t walk the Icknield Way in one go, but used cars, taxis, lifts to return home each day.
The final four days of my journey, from Royston to Knettishall Heath, is covered in part 2 “Walking the Icknield Way: my glorious summer adventure continues”.
Sarah walked with a 10L rucksack, 2 x 1.5l water bottles, battery back and lead, blister plasters, paracetamol, £10 in cash, a baseball cap, sunglasses, a thin sports tops and a walking app.
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