The first 50 miles under my belt, I am raring to continue thanks to my walking poles. Not only do poles help take the pressure off your legs and joints but they stop your fingers swelling as they encourage you to keep your arms up. Such a bonus too for stability on undulating ground, for flicking thorns and nettles off the path and keeping cows back should they feel overprotective of their calves! But with livestock I would urge keeping your distance.
So my walk continues across Herts/Essex/Cambs/Suffolk, heading in a more north-easterly direction. Below is a precis’ed version of my diary over the last 4 days of an 8 days of walking.
Day 5 Royston to Linton. 17.5miles. 1859ft elevation gain
The longest day for me. So, I began at a Royston roundabout, followed the main road footpath east until nearly at the bypass. The signage is terrible. So, cross the road and start to head up what looks like a private driveway before taking a footpath to the left that runs along the busy A505. Thankfully, you’re safely the other side of the hedge.
At the first lay-by, take the farm track away from the noisy road past a few farm buildings. Now you’re in for a hard slog. Ascend into Heydon village. It felt quite remote today. The hardest part was walking across a recently ploughed and very dry field down towards Great Chesterford.
Crossing the M11 and a rail track takes you into the main village. I used to live here when there were more pubs and shops in the village. Sadly I only saw one pub. A later recce revealed a general store with a cafe away from the path. Leaving Great Chesterford, you cross the Saffron Walden road and you’re back on paths by fields.
It was at the top of a hill, phone in one hand and walking pole in the other that my foot and pole caught in long grass and I face-planted, dramatically. Thankfully only a few scratches and no-one for miles to see it! So, my day ended with a few bruises and a slow descent on a very overgrown and narrow path full of thistle and nettles to Linton.
Day 6 Linton to Cheveley. 16.1miles. 2080ft elevation gain
Today was another early start, 6.30am. Leaving Linton with a few local dog walkers I ascended up to fields and then it was just me, the path and a magical kaleidoscope of butterflies.
The route passes the Grade II brick Rivey Hill Water Tower, descends towards the former Chilford Hall Vineyard, crosses the road into the fields where a confusion of path crossroads and lack of signage necessitates use of an app. Heading up a hill I arrive at the very beautiful village of Balsham with a Grade 1 listed church and a café!
You’re sent around the back of the village before walking along a very, very long stony track (Fox Road) for what seems like miles (!) before picking your way through Willingham Green and into Burrough Green where you are spoilt for choice for breakfast. The route continues behind a pub, across paths through well kept, horse racing, stud land. Beware here, some fields may contain magnificent looking horses. There is the option to walk around these.
On to Dullingham Ley, Stetchworth and finally Cheveley. Here, I found my battery on low power mode and no battery pack. I managed to arrange the taxi before it cut out. We rely on our phones so much.
Day 7 Cheveley to Icklingham. 13.8miles. 908ft elevation gain
Returning to Cheveley, I resumed the path to Ashley. This is a long stretch along the road, over a crossroads, a right turn before the river to then walk beside the river to Dalham with its historic Victorian malting kiln. My journey continued across a road, through trees and sheep towards Dalham Hall Stud. Then I headed north through Gazeley and Needham Street, cutting across the fields to pop out opposite Kentford’s Phoenix Bike Park – a welcome chance for a refreshment stop and toilets!
The path continues on to Herringswell, then Tuddenham, and finally across the sandy Cavenham Heath National Nature Reserve to Icklingham and the delightful Guinness Arms.
Day 8 Icklingham to Knettishall Heath and the end of the Icknield Way path. 16.4miles. 1486ft elevation gain
My final day on the Icknield Way begins north of Icklingham village heading towards the Kings Forest, named to commemorate the Silver Jubilee of King George V and Queen Mary. Walking through a wood for literally miles (4.5miles) was hard and eerie. Scatty squirrels, the odd rodent and a daft pigeon flying manically out of a tree, probably because I scared it, all added to the unsettling atmosphere.
Leaving the wood you’re almost level with Elveden and hit by the sound of jet manoeuvres that continued all day. I passed the first of many pig farms to come! A sandy and occasionally hard-going farm track crosses the Thetford/Bury road towards Euston and the grand Euston Hall with roots dating back to the Domesday Book in 1087.
Here the signage is confusing. Perhaps I was just tired. The route goes into the Hall’s grounds where you follow a well signposted path – no doubt the owners don’t want you going off track. Finally, the last stretch, walking on the edge of Knettishall Heath Nature Reserve, home to some of the UK’s rarest invertebrates and plants and the start of my next walking adventure, Peddars Way.
So that was the Icknield Way path. Whether you do the whole route or just sections, it’s a rewarding, glorious experience.
Sarah walked with a 10L rucksack, 2 x 1.5l water bottles, battery back and lead, blister plasters, paracetamol, £10 in cash, a baseball cap, Sunglasses, sports jacket and a walking app. Read part one here.
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